
The Gondola
Two stages: Kongdoori first, then up towards Apharwat. Go early — tickets for the second stage are capped daily and wind closes it without warning.

A meadow of flowers in June and one of Asia's great ski mountains in January.
Kashmir · The short version
Gulmarg is two completely different places depending on when you arrive. From December to March it is a serious ski mountain with a lift that climbs to just under 4,000 metres. From May to September it is a green bowl of wildflowers with a golf course in the middle of it.
It is the single most weather-dependent stop in Kashmir. The Gondola closes for wind more often than visitors expect, and the road up from Tangmarg can shut after heavy snow. We plan Gulmarg with a spare afternoon wherever the itinerary allows.
What to see

Two stages: Kongdoori first, then up towards Apharwat. Go early — tickets for the second stage are capped daily and wind closes it without warning.

Snow at the top well into June. In winter this is the off-piste terrain that brings skiers here from all over the world.

A small grey stone church from the 1900s sitting alone in the meadow. Takes ten minutes and is worth it for the setting alone.

One of the highest golf courses anywhere, and in summer the easiest flat walking in Kashmir. You don't have to play to walk it.

When to go
January and February for snow, June for the meadows. April and November are the two months we'd steer you away from — too melted for skiing, too bare for flowers.
Best snow
Peak
Peak
Melt, muddy
Open
Wildflowers
Open
Open
Peak
Open
Between seasons
Snow arrives
December to March. Lessons and hired kit for beginners; guided off-piste for people who know what they're doing.
The reason most people come. Hire boots and a coat at the bottom rather than carrying them from home.
In summer, the walk out to Strawberry Valley or Khilanmarg is gentle and gets you away from the crowd at the base.
Trips that include Gulmarg



Keep going

Zoji La · 3,528 m
Or, more precisely, 434 kilometres of it — Srinagar to Leh, over the pass that decides whether the road is open at all.